Elites Go Midwest

Dear Elite,

Now that the languid summer season is upon us here in the lowcountry, with heat indexes approaching 110 and swim team’s season officially in the books, springtime’s urgent pomp and circumstance seem a distant memory. Back then we were schlepping the kids to and from school daily; contractors were all over the house; swim team and coach pitch were cranking up; kids were out in the street playing; people were eager to mingle; Jesus was up and at ’em, wounds and all. In short, times were busy. Now, people are over it, and the world is hiding in air conditioned rooms. Even though the two seasons tend to blur into one another, the experience of each has little in common, which can be jarring for subs. They see short sleeves and baseball on TV, equivocate the two distinct times of year, and become frustrated when they find themselves melting in the extended daylight and extreme heat, bored with the pool, and driven to their wits’ end by their children’s need for entertainment. Not elites, though. We’ve learned from years gone by, and we have foresight. That’s why in the long ago time of this past spring, Danyelle and I planned a 6-day “vacation” for our family in the middle of July. We anticipated the kids’ complaints of “We’re bored,” and the refrain of “What can we do?” and we prepared a response; not a trip to Disney World, no that’s for the subelite masses; and no, not a resort with a pool by the beach. We’re not that lazy or braindead. We wanted to show our kids something real, something with culture, and we wanted to get the fuck away from the heat, so we decided on a self-curated sightseeing tour of Chicago and East Grand Rapids, Michigan. Besides being several hundred miles north and promising relief from the sure-to-be-oppressive lowcountry summer heat, Chicago also happens to be where my friend Matt Gruca makes his home, and EGR is where Danyelle lived until she was 12. I know what you’re thinking – we’re geniuses. Six whole days of having an answer to the question “What can we do?” that wasn’t “go to the pool.” Six days packed full of handpicked activities, dragging the kids all over the city and then driving across two state lines to a second destination. Brilliant! Even better, now that this fantastic plan has been carried out, you get to read all about it in this, our first ever Raging Elitist travel blog edition. For a full recap, see the timeline below. For the highlights, just scroll past the timeline to the “Best of the Midwest” section. If you want to go straight to the sentimental takeaways about the kids, that’s at the bottom. Enjoy living vicariously through my elite family and planning your next vacation around this fabulous itinerary and accompanying insights. You’re welcome.

Wednesday – Kids’ First Flight

Thursday – Lincoln Park Zoo, Art Institute, Crappy Pizza

Friday – River Cruise, Wicker Park

Saturday – Wrigley Field

Sunday – Rental Car to EGR

Monday – Rogue Around Eastern Michigan

Stay away from the edge
I’d hate to try to navigate that cut in the background.
Don’t worry. Those last bites got eaten.
Enjoying stuff everywhere
This could be art.
Neuron sculpture

Alphabet people
Ways to Say Goodbye
Gaming at Craig’s Cruisers

Tuesday – The Journey Back to Elite HQ, CLT Sucks

Best of the Midwest – Attractions

Best Chicago Attraction – Art Institute: There’s a reason this place owns a huge chunk of the most expensive real estate in the city. It’s fucking awesome. If you’re in town for a short stay and have to choose one of the city’s many museums, enjoy some of Chicago’s legal weed and take a stroll through part of this behemoth on the north side of Millennium Park. As Matt told me ahead of time when I was planning out our trip, “it’s the one.” Glad to have skipped the Museum of Science and Industry, the Field Museum, and the Aquarium in favor of this temple of art. I wanted to go back every day we were in Chicago. Some of my viewing was determined by avoiding the larger crowds in the sadly temporary Van Gogh and the Avant-Garde exhibit and in the Monet room, but there were plenty of masterpieces hanging alone, begging to be stared at. A question for all the sober people looking briefly, particularly the ones moving with the crowd and the ones all too willing to sidle up next to you: what are you doing? Personal favorites among the temporary exhibit were Van Gogh’s Woman in a Garden and Angrand’s The Seine at Courbevoie, La Grand Jatte. I knew nothing of Angrand, Seurat, or Signat, all displayed alongside Van Gogh, all fantastic. Among the permanent exhibits, favorites were a particularly dark version of The Water Lily Pond by Monet and Picasso’s Woman in a Red Armchair and Nude Under a Pine in the new third floor modern section. Eternal thanks to Danyelle for taking the kids away and entertaining them in the armor section.

Surprise Runner Up – John Hancock Tower: Maybe it’s because it was a Wednesday and tornado sirens had been sounding an hour before we went, but the line to go to the observation deck on the 94th floor was negligible, as was the crowd at the top. The tilt ride is a silly gimmick, but the views of the lake and the skyline at sunset are undeniable. It was the perfect way to begin our stay in the city. I particularly enjoyed Cartter’s disbelief regarding the lake: “How is that a lake?” he said. “That’s the ocean,” he said. Thirty minutes later, after walking all the way around the top floor, I told him again that it was indeed a lake. He cocked his head to the side and pointed his index finger towards the ceiling, a miniature professor enjoying another chance to refute my ignorance, almost singing his rebuttal, “No, it isn’t!”

Most Missable – River Cruise: We already saw everything from the top of the tower, the tour guide’s schtick was predictable, I learned very little, the kids didn’t like being confined and Danyelle got nauseous. If you’re an aspiring architecture buff, maybe it’s worth it, but on the other hand, you might not glean much you didn’t already know.

Best Ballpark – Fenway: The Cubs downed the Red Sox during our visit, but it’s becoming clearer to me why Matt hates Boston and their fanbase so much. Wrigley just can’t touch the greatest ballpark in all the land.

Best Michigan Attraction – Grand Haven State Park: Who knew that the best thing about Michigan, where we went to get away from the beach, would be the beach? The Great Lakes are one of the world’s astounding wonders, and this is a fantastic spot to get a sense of that undeniable fact. This was one place the kids were content to just be. I could’ve spent at least half the day.

Surprise Runner Up – Frederik Meijer Garden and Sculpture Park: The kids were far less amused than I at the array of modern sculpture set in these idyllic gardens. Maybe if we had gone in the morning instead of after a long drive to and from the beach and lunch in Grand Rapids, we would have had more staying power.

Best of the Midwest Continued – Food

Best Meal – The Stopalong: We at caesar wraps and smoothies for lunch in anticipation of dining at this burger joint in Wicker Park with Matt and Sabrina. Scotty said his burger was probably the best thing he’s ever eaten, and it was the most satisfying meal I had during our trip. Thanks, Matt.

Best Hot Dog – Yesterdogs: Scotty and I were in agreement again here. He said it was the best hot dog he’s ever eaten. Try to eat just two. It can’t be done. Wrigley loses again. A Grand Rapids institution indeed. Wish we hadn’t forgotten to get t-shirts.

Best Ice Cream – Village Cone Shop – Thanks to this little place adjoining an EGR gas station, I now know what a flurry is. Whoever came up with those long flexy spoons for scooping the melty frozen concoction is a fucking genius. The more popular Jersey Junction has nothing on this place’s dessert; however, if I had it to do over again, I’d eat way less of that just ok Rose’s pizza and order a malt at JJ. Maybe that would have tipped the scales a little more in their favor.

Most Self-Important – Wicker Park Jenny’s Ice Cream: When we walked into this place and saw them cranking out waffle bowls, it seemed like an easy decision. Danyelle told me to get one for us to share with the kids, so when I got to the front of the line, I asked the girl taking orders for a waffle bowl with two scoops of chocolate in it. “You want a standard?” she answered. Apparently, I hadn’t been clear enough, so I repeated my order, to which she replied, “Yeah, that’s a standard.” Thanks so much for the schooling. Now I know that a standard at Jenny’s is two golf ball sized ice cream scoops sitting in the bottom of a waffle bowl. Fucking idiot.

Best of the Midwest Continued – Transportation

Best Flight – United CHS to ORD: A four-hour delay with an aborted initial boarding and some serious turbulence that had Danyelle near fully panicked, this was absolutely the perfect introduction to air travel for the kids. What’s more, the seats were actually considerably more comfortable than those in the AA flights that we had on the way home. Maybe it was because we spent a few bucks to upgrade to “economy plus?” Not sure, but United was definitely better, even with the inconveniences noted above. Finally, this was the kids’ first flight ever, they handled it beautifully, I got to smother the flicker of nervousness that threatened to overtake Cartter before it ever had a chance, and an old lady in front of us rightly noted what a wonderful father I am. Go me.

Best Ride in Chicago – The L: Rubbing up against strangers trying not to fall? A guy staring at me like he wants to rape me in the ass? Scared kids? Why take an Uber (which we did a lot) when you can take the L? You haven’t earned your trip to Wrigley unless you ride the train in.

Best Walk – tie between Lincoln Park and Wicker Park: Maybe it’s because it was our first day, and we weren’t tired yet, but once we left the zoo and started walking South in Lincoln Park, everything was right with the world. It’s just a couple miles to Michigan Ave. It might as well be a couple hundred. Then there was the walk through Matt’s neighborhood on our way to dinner at the Stopalong. Wicker Park is a gem, and I can see why he lives there. Everyone felt at home on our little stroll. Scotty even reached up and took Matt’s hand unprompted while crossing the street, commenting on Science knows what as the video game master led him up over the curb and onto the sidewalk again. If Danyelle and I go back without the kids, that’s where we’ll stay.

Most Efficient – the Rogue: The Rogue got us from Chicago to EGR, Grand Haven, Yesterdogs, Frederik Meijer Gardens, Craig’s Cruisers, and the Grand Rapids Airport in less than 48 hours. It was also the site of conversations about animal speeds, the advantages of violent vs. pacifist robots, and varying opinions of bubblegum ice cream among other things. The rental car carried us hundreds of miles and brought us closer together.

Sentimental Wrap

I suppose since nobody died and we had lots of fun, that our elite midwest swing was a success, but that success wasn’t without cost, and I’m not talking about the money. We designed the trip as an answer to the kids’ question “What can we do?” and we ended it with a question of our own: “Are we doing the right thing?” We shunned the likes of Disney World and a more relaxing vacation by the pool and hauled the kids on a trip that was more about what the two of us wanted to do. Is that how family building works? Kind of like when Caesar Milan instructs an incompetent dog owner on how to handle their canine on the leash – to paraphrase, “The walk is about you. He (the dog) is just lucky to come.” Does it work that way with kids too? Wait, the kids probably don’t want to be treated like dogs. Am I treating the kids like dogs?

Everywhere we went on this trip, people asked if the kids were twins. The way the two of them moved around together – laughing, speaking their own language, clinging to one another more every day as their weariness grew – I could see why people assumed. At the same time, the trip brought out the boys’ differences more clearly than ever, Cartter nervous and unable to sleep, Scotty at ease and napping in Ubers and on airplanes. Why don’t I see them the way they are all the time? My ability to continue to make realizations about the kids’ personalities proves to me that my elite parenting is very much like the scientific method: messy and full of mistakes. This harsh reality in mind on our last night in Michigan, I told Cartter that I wished I could be the perfect Dad for him. He was in his temporary bedroom, unable to sleep, exhausted. Still, his tired little face looked almost amused by what I’d said, turning away from the pillow to look in my eyes and tell me frankly that “nobody can be perfect.” He thinks I’m silly. Forgiveness is sweet. Maybe that’s why religious people tell you to ask for it so much. It’s definitely one of the reasons people have dogs. Maybe kids are like dogs a little. Maybe if I just keep remembering to ask, then the kids will stay generous with their forgiveness. An elite can dream, dream to remember.

One response to “Elites Go Midwest”

  1. Elite Summer reading:

    I awake alone, unbothered, and well rested. It’s 8:30am and there’s an unread message on my phone from John Lupton (yes, you know who he is). As I have come to expect , it’s a link to his personal blog, the grotesque evolution of a fantasy football email chain born of ample free time and unlimited grievances. Immediately my day is ruined.

    I draw a deep breath in through my nose,stare down at my phone and prepare for the task ahead. The unavoidable realization has set in. Not only do I have to read this new post since it’s at least in part about me, but I also promised John in a weak moment that I would read his last post as well. Again, my day is ruined.

    I scroll back through john’s texts and open the link to “over the hill at 39” and begin reading. He starts as he always does, bitching, about his never ending ailments and fragile body. “Was he always such a bitch?” Yes, I remind myself, most swimmers are. Maybe it’s all the chlorine, or the fact that their joints have been aquatically insulated from the harsh grind and impact of the real world. Regardless I read on, eventually relieved that John was able to muster the strength to hike the mountain and also relieved that the “elite” philosophies that plagued prior posts had mostly subsided in favor endearing moments of family reflection.

    The few photos he shares stir sapphire memories of my own: days spent on the water avoiding the exact same hike he now forces his own family to endure, thousands of little Cleo’s cast, the trout, the bass, the brim satisfaction, the golf carts, the ping pong, the rope swing, all of it, and I can’t help but envy the memories that lay ahead for Cartter and Scotty. As you’d assume, John is too cool or important for social medial (probably both), so these rare photos provide what feel like distant views into a Lupton world that “non elites” can only hope to read about in lengthy blog posts. A simple but necessary reminder that these online ravings are grounded in reality, and not just John’s edible induced fever dream.

    I need a break. I’ve made it through the first post, but I know the second will be much more involved and far more grueling. I get out of bed, pour myself some coffee, sit in the yard and slowly sip in silence as I regroup and refocus.

    With some hesitation I click the link “Elites go Midwest” and it’s even longer than I had feared. I scroll down in horror and amazement at the pages of detailed notes and observations from their trip. A full detailed recap itinerary of everything the family had done and eaten, down to the minute. “Was he taking notes the whole time? Does he make Danyelle keep a time sheet? Does anyone else read this?” I couldn’t help but wonder.

    I already knew the Luptons had had a good time (Scotty told me) and I always knew they would. Chicago and the entire Midwest really are great, especially wisconsin. Why else would I chose to live here? I also already knew their detailed itinerary as John had sent it to me in advance for my local approval; and yet, likely due to my own self obsession, I read on anyway.

    Most of the post was as remembered and as expected. A long profession of John’s love for the art institute, a rare admission of fault and regret over an ill advised pizza audible, the subtle but consistent horniness for the Boston redsox, and most importantly lots of love for the hotel. The mentions and assessments of myself and Sabrina were brief and fair (it’s all about John after all) but no mention of the fish tank. A major over-site in light of the boys’ proclamation that the blood worm feeding was at least at that time the highlight of their trip.

    I read on through the Grand Rapids portion of their journey, amused by the apparent realization that Lake Michigan is in fact fucking awesome and reminded of my own fun afternoon at the Frederick Meijer sculpture garden. In the end I was relieved the Luptons had made it home without incident and Danyelle had avoid fainting on the trip, although it sounded like she came close on a few occasions, but mostly I was relieved I had finally finished my elite summer reading.

    Day ruined or not, I was thankful for visit and look forward to the next lupton encounter even if it includes another reading assignment.

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